A stitch in time – the basics of hand sewing

Hand stitches can be divided into two categories: temporary stitches and permanent stitches. Temporary stitches, like tacking, are used to hold fabric in place while you work, but are removed before the item is finished.
Permanent stitches remain as part of the project’s structure and come in various forms for different purposes. Each month we’ll build your sewing skills by showing you how to sew two basic stitches.

How to sew permanent stitches

Permanent stitches are used when making up or repairing a garment. Some, like running stitch, can be substituted for machine stitches when necessary. Others, like blanket stitch, are used to neaten up raw edges on fiddly areas that are awkward to reach using a sewing machine.

Running stitch
Ideal for using on seams or to make gathers, this stitch is quick to do. Sew from right to left, taking the point of the needle in and out of the fabric and picking up a number of stitches on the needle before pulling it through the fabric. The stitches should be small (3mm long) and even.

Slipstitch
This stitch is used to attach a folded edge to another layer of fabric. Pass the needle through the folded edge. Pick up a thread of the underneath fabric, then sew a 6mm stitch through the folded edge from the right to the left. Continue to stitch in this way.

Backstitch
This strong stitch is mainly used for sewing seams. Working from right to left, begin by making one small stitch. Then insert the needle at the start of the previous stitch and bring it out beyond the point where the thread emerges. Continue, making sure to always insert the needle in the end of the previous stitch. These backstitches should always look neat and tidy, like machine stitches, on the right side of the fabric.

Whipstitch
Used when joining two flat edges together, whipstitch is a strong over edge stitch. Working from right to left, pass the needle through the fabric layers from the back to the front, about 2mm in from the edge. Continue along the fabric edge moving to the left for each stitch.

Buttonhole stitch
Used to make hand sewn buttonholes and to secure fastenings. This stitch is always sewn on a fabric edge with no spaces in between the stitches. Working from right to left, push the needle from the top edge into the fabric. Wrap the thread behind the needle as the needle goes into the fabric and again as it leaves the fabric. Pull through and a knot will appear at the edge. Repeat along the length of the buttonhole and finish with a small neat knot on the reverse.

Blanket stitch
This stitch is used to neaten raw edges, and also as a decorative stitch. Secure the thread on the wrong side and, with the right side facing, bring the needle through from back to front, 5mm in from the fabric edge, passing the point of the needle over the thread loop. Make the next stitch 5mm along from the first one. Carry on sewing in this way, bringing the needle through the fabric from back to front and passing the point of the needle over the thread loop. Keep the stitches even and check that the loops sit neatly along the edge of the fabric.

Slip hem stitch
Although it looks similar to herringbone stitch, this stitch is used mainly for securing hems. Working from left to right, take a short horizontal stitch into one layer then another.

Flat fell stitch
This strong, secure stitch is often used to secure bias bindings and linings. Working from right to left, make a short, straight vertical stitch across the end of the fabric.

Quick slipstitch
Sometimes called even slipstitch, this stitch is used to join two folded, abutting edges together. Working from right to left, take a 5mm stitch through one folded edge, then make a stitch the same length through the other folded edge. Continue stitching along the length to the join the two pieces of fabric together.

Lockstitch
This stitch is used to join two layers of fabric. Fold back the top edge of the top layer of fabric and, working from right to left, take a tiny stitch picking up both layers. Make the next stitch 2.5cm below the first, picking up both layers and passing the needle over the working thread. Leave the floating thread loose as you sew.