Button up

How many times have you heard someone described as ‘so hopeless they couldn’t even sew on a button’? But sewing buttons isn’t rocket science; you just need to know the basics to make sure they stay put. If you can’t find an exact match to replace a lost button, simply re-arrange the ones that are left. Try moving one from a more inconspicuous place like a cuff. Different kinds of buttons need attaching in different ways, but none of them are hard to do. And, once you’ve sewn a button on correctly and securely, it should last for life.

Sewing buttons with a thread shank
Secure your thread, get your button in position and make a loose stitch through each of the holes in the button. Next place a toothpick or matchstick between the thread and the button. Take four or five stitches through each hole then bring the needle through the fabric, to the right side of the garment, underneath the button. Take the toothpick or matchstick out, then wind the thread around the stitches a few times to create a shank. Finally, make several small stitches through the shank, then finish the thread ends on the wrong side of the fabric to secure it.

How to reinforce a button
If you’re sewing a button to a fragile fabric, or an outer garment such as a mac, a coat, or a jacket, then it’s a good idea to reinforce the button to prevent the fabric from tearing during fastening or unfastening. To do this, place a small, flat button on the underside of the garment, directly under the decorative button you wish to reinforce. Sew through both buttons at the same time, then place a toothpick or matchstick under the decorative button. Make a shank and secure it as you would for a button with a thread shank.

Sewing flat buttons
Secure your thread then slide the button onto the needle. Put the button in the correct position – use the spacing of the remaining buttons as a guide. With the needle pointing downwards, stitch loosely through each of the holes in the button several times. If you’re using buttons with four holes in, then you can make a feature of the stitching by sewing them using stitches which cross in the centre, form parallel lines, fan out or form a square.

Choose the right thread
The type of thread you use to attach your buttons is crucial to their staying power, cheap thread that snaps easily will never last and you’ll be forever re-sewing your buttons. Use strong thread like buttonhole twist, all-purpose thread, or elastic thread. You could even use waxed dental floss in an emergency! Whichever thread you use, always try to match it to the colour of your buttons. Make sure the needle you use has a large enough eye to push the thread through easily and is thin enough to pass through the holes or shank of the button. To make the job quicker, use two strands of thread to sew with. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle and pull it through till both ends are level. Knot and trim the ends, then run the thread over a white candle to prevent it from getting tangled and knotted, now you’re ready to sew. For all hand sewn buttons, begin by inserting the needle on the right side of the fabric at the button position. Make a few small stitches, one on top of the other, to secure the thread.

Tip
One loose button often leads to another, so once you notice one button coming loose, check the rest and re-sew them all at the same time.

Sewing buttons with a metal shank
Using buttonhole twist, secure the thread then place a toothpick between the button shank and the fabric. Sew four or five stitches by bringing the needle through the shank, over the toothpick, through the fabric then back up on the other side of the shank. To finish, secure the thread on the wrong side and remove toothpick.